:root{--ink:#12312c;--forest:#0d2a26;--forest2:#163c35;--ivory:#f4f1e9;--paper:#faf8f3;--line:rgba(18,49,44,.16);--muted:#62706c;--sea:#97c9c1;--gold:#b49b71;--max:1380px;--display:'Bodoni Moda','Didot','Bodoni 72',serif;--serif:'Instrument Serif',Georgia,serif;--sans:'DM Sans',Arial,sans-serif}
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solid rgba(255,255,255,.18);margin-top:55px}.mood{padding:34px 28px 48px;border-right:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.18);min-height:260px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:space-between}.mood:last-child{border-right:0}.mood span{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#9ec0b6}.mood h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:43px;font-weight:400;margin:20px 0 12px}.mood p{font-size:13px;line-height:1.65;color:#b9c9c4;max-width:340px}.arrow{font-size:24px;margin-top:24px}.split-photo{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.05fr .95fr;min-height:750px}.split-photo .visual{background:#20493f center/cover no-repeat;min-height:640px}.split-copy{background:#e9ece5;padding:95px 9vw 80px 70px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center}.split-copy h2{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:400;font-size:72px;line-height:.95;letter-spacing:-.04em;margin:0 0 25px}.split-copy blockquote{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:28px;line-height:1.3;margin:28px 0;color:#2f514a}.btn{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:16px;border:1px solid var(--ink);border-radius:999px;padding:14px 20px;width:max-content;font-size:11px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.13em;transition:.25s}.btn:hover{background:var(--ink);color:white}.btn.light{border-color:rgba(255,255,255,.55);color:white}.btn.light:hover{background:white;color:var(--ink)}.journal-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.2fr .8fr .8fr;gap:20px;margin-top:54px}.story{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:20px}.story .thumb{height:340px;background:#d8ddd7 center/cover no-repeat;margin-bottom:22px}.story.small .thumb{height:260px}.story .meta{font-size:10px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.16em;color:#72807d}.story h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:36px;line-height:1.05;font-weight:400;margin:12px 0}.story 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0}.trip-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:18px;margin-top:36px}.trip-card{border:1px solid var(--line);padding:28px;min-height:240px}.trip-card small{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.17em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#71807c}.trip-card h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:34px;font-weight:400;margin:18px 0 12px}.trip-card p{font-size:13px;line-height:1.6;color:#63706d}.compare-table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;margin-top:38px}.compare-table th,.compare-table td{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:18px 12px;text-align:left;font-size:13px}.compare-table th{font-size:10px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.14em;color:#75817e}.notice{background:#eef1eb;padding:24px 28px;border-left:2px solid #5d877b;font-size:13px;line-height:1.6}.credit{position:absolute;z-index:3;right:18px;bottom:16px;font-size:8px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.1em;color:rgba(255,255,255,.64)}.reveal{opacity:0;transform:translateY(16px);transition:.7s ease}.reveal.in{opacity:1;transform:none}
@media(max-width:980px){.wrap{padding:0 22px}.nav{padding:0 24px;height:72px}.navlinks{display:none;position:absolute;top:72px;left:0;right:0;background:#0b241f;padding:22px 24px;flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-start}.navlinks.open{display:flex}.mobile-toggle{display:block}.hero-inner{padding:145px 0 38px}.hero-bottom,.editorial-intro,.planner,.split-photo,.article-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:36px}.hero-bottom{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.hero-intro{grid-column:1/-1}.section{padding:80px 0}.parks-grid{gap:12px}.park-card:nth-child(n){grid-column:span 6;min-height:460px}.split-copy{padding:65px 34px}.split-copy h2{font-size:56px}.journal-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.journal-grid .story:first-child{grid-column:1/-1}.mood-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.mood{border-right:0;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.18)}.footer-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.footer-grid>div:first-child{grid-column:1/-1}.factbar{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.fact:nth-child(2){border-right:0}.trip-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}
@media(max-width:640px){.topline{font-size:9px}.brand strong{font-size:11px}.display{font-size:66px}.hero{min-height:88vh}.hero-bottom{grid-template-columns:1fr}.hero-intro{font-size:22px}.section{padding:65px 0}.h2{font-size:49px}.lede{font-size:24px}.parks-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.park-card:nth-child(n){grid-column:auto;min-height:470px}.park-card h3{font-size:42px}.planner{padding:34px 24px}.planner .options{grid-template-columns:1fr}.journal-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.journal-grid .story:first-child{grid-column:auto}.split-photo .visual{min-height:460px}.split-copy{padding:48px 24px}.split-copy h2{font-size:46px}.footer-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.footer-grid>div:first-child{grid-column:auto}.footer .big{font-size:40px}.legal{flex-direction:column}.page-hero{min-height:72vh}.page-hero h1{font-size:72px}.page-hero .strap{font-size:24px}.factbar{grid-template-columns:1fr}.fact{padding-left:0;border-right:0}.article-side{position:relative}.article h2{font-size:46px}.article .pull{font-size:29px}.wide-img{height:420px}.trip-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.compare-table{font-size:11px;display:block;overflow-x:auto;white-space:nowrap}}


/* 9.5 editorial upgrade */
.display,.h2,.park-card h3,.mood h3,.split-copy h2,.story h3,.footer .big,.page-hero h1,.fact strong,.article h2,.article h3,.trip-card h3,.section-title,.guide-hero-title,.season-card h3,.route-card h3,.comparison-row strong,.feature-card h3{font-family:var(--display)}
.display,.h2,.page-hero h1,.split-copy h2,.section-title,.guide-hero-title{text-wrap:balance}
.display{letter-spacing:-.047em;line-height:.84}.display em,.page-hero h1 em{font-family:var(--serif);font-style:italic;letter-spacing:-.02em}
.h2{letter-spacing:-.038em}.park-card h3{letter-spacing:-.028em}.page-hero h1{letter-spacing:-.045em;max-width:1200px;overflow-wrap:normal}.page-hero h1.long-title{font-size:clamp(64px,9vw,138px)}
.nav a,.pill,.btn,.story a,.park-card{outline-offset:4px}.nav a:focus-visible,.pill:focus-visible,.btn:focus-visible,.story a:focus-visible,.park-card:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--sea)}
.mobile-toggle{cursor:pointer}.navlinks.open{box-shadow:0 20px 40px rgba(0,0,0,.22)}
.planner-title{font-size:clamp(44px,5vw,68px)}
.authority-band{border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr)}
.authority-stat{padding:28px 26px;border-right:1px solid var(--line)}.authority-stat:last-child{border-right:0}.authority-stat small{display:block;font-size:9px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.17em;color:#71807c;margin-bottom:7px}.authority-stat strong{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:27px;line-height:1.05}
.comparison-list{margin-top:50px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.comparison-row{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.05fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;gap:20px;padding:20px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);align-items:start}.comparison-row.header{font-size:9px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.16em;color:#74807d}.comparison-row strong{font-size:27px;font-weight:400}.comparison-row span{font-size:13px;line-height:1.55;color:#586763}.comparison-row a{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:8px}
.season-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:1px;background:rgba(255,255,255,.16);margin-top:48px}.season-card{background:var(--forest);padding:32px;min-height:300px}.season-card .season{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#9dc7bb}.season-card h3{font-size:38px;font-weight:400;line-height:.95;margin:45px 0 14px}.season-card p{font-size:13px;line-height:1.65;color:#b9c9c4}.season-card a{display:inline-block;margin-top:20px;font-size:10px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.13em;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.35);padding-bottom:4px}
.route-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:18px;margin-top:48px}.route-card{border:1px solid var(--line);padding:30px;min-height:300px;display:flex;flex-direction:column}.route-card .meta{font-size:9px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.16em;color:#71807c}.route-card h3{font-size:36px;font-weight:400;line-height:1;margin:35px 0 14px}.route-card p{font-size:13px;line-height:1.65;color:#5d6b67}.route-card a{margin-top:auto;padding-top:22px;font-size:10px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.13em}
.feature-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:16px;margin:32px 0 55px}.feature-card{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:23px 0 8px}.feature-card .num{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#72807d}.feature-card h3{font-size:30px;line-height:1;margin:16px 0 10px;font-weight:400}.feature-card p{font-size:13px;line-height:1.65;margin:0;color:#5c6a66}
.practical-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:12px;margin:26px 0 46px}.practical{background:#eef1eb;padding:24px}.practical strong{display:block;font-family:var(--display);font-size:25px;font-weight:400;line-height:1.05;margin-bottom:10px}.practical p{font-size:13px;line-height:1.62;margin:0}
.editorial-note{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.7fr 1.3fr;gap:40px;padding:36px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);margin:50px 0}.editorial-note .label{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.17em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#71807c}.editorial-note p{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:25px;line-height:1.25;margin:0;color:#294c45}
.guide-hero{padding:185px 0 76px;background:var(--forest);color:white;position:relative;overflow:hidden}.guide-hero:before{content:'';position:absolute;inset:0;background:radial-gradient(circle at 80% 20%,rgba(151,201,193,.18),transparent 38%)}.guide-hero .wrap{position:relative;z-index:2}.guide-hero-title{font-size:clamp(68px,9vw,142px);font-weight:400;line-height:.84;letter-spacing:-.045em;margin:0;max-width:1100px}.guide-hero .lede{color:#d7e4e0;margin-top:28px;max-width:780px}.guide-meta{display:flex;gap:20px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:34px;font-size:10px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.14em;color:#a9c4bc}
.prose{max-width:860px}.prose h2{font-family:var(--display);font-size:56px;font-weight:400;line-height:.96;letter-spacing:-.03em;margin:64px 0 20px}.prose h3{font-family:var(--display);font-size:32px;font-weight:400;margin:38px 0 12px}.prose p{font-size:16px;line-height:1.82;color:#40534f}.prose ul{padding-left:20px;color:#40534f;line-height:1.75}.prose .pull{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:34px;line-height:1.25;border-left:1px solid var(--ink);padding-left:25px;margin:42px 0;color:#294c45}
.footer-note{font-size:12px;line-height:1.65;color:#91a8a1;max-width:430px;margin-top:20px}
.inline-link{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(18,49,44,.35)}
@media(max-width:980px){.authority-band{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.authority-stat:nth-child(2){border-right:0}.authority-stat:nth-child(-n+2){border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.comparison-row{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.comparison-row.header{display:none}.comparison-row strong{grid-column:1/-1}.season-grid,.route-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.feature-grid,.practical-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.editorial-note{grid-template-columns:1fr}.page-hero h1.long-title{font-size:clamp(58px,10vw,102px)}}
@media(max-width:640px){.nav{top:29px}.brand strong{max-width:190px;line-height:1.15}.display{font-size:clamp(56px,18vw,72px);line-height:.86}.page-hero h1,.page-hero h1.long-title{font-size:clamp(48px,15vw,68px);line-height:.88;letter-spacing:-.035em;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.page-hero .strap{font-size:22px;line-height:1.15}.planner-title{font-size:46px!important}.authority-band,.season-grid,.route-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.authority-stat{border-right:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.comparison-row{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:7px}.comparison-row strong{font-size:30px}.season-card{min-height:0}.route-card{min-height:250px}.guide-hero{padding:155px 0 58px}.guide-hero-title{font-size:clamp(54px,17vw,78px);line-height:.88}.prose h2{font-size:44px}.editorial-note p{font-size:22px}.fact strong{font-size:21px}.article p{font-size:15px}.article h3{font-size:32px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}.reveal{opacity:1;transform:none;transition:none}.park-card .photo{transition:none}}


/* v9.7 multilingual + authority upgrade */
.lang-switch{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:4px;margin-left:8px;padding-left:12px;border-left:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.18);flex-wrap:wrap}.lang-link{font-size:8px!important;letter-spacing:.12em!important;padding:6px 5px!important;opacity:.58}.lang-link:hover,.lang-link.active{opacity:1}.lang-link.active{border-bottom:1px solid var(--sea)}
.photo-caption{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#7b8582;margin-top:8px}.source-line{padding:18px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.faq-list{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin:22px 0 54px}.faq-item{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:0}.faq-item summary{cursor:pointer;list-style:none;font-family:var(--display);font-size:28px;line-height:1.1;padding:22px 34px 22px 0;position:relative}.faq-item summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.faq-item summary:after{content:'+';position:absolute;right:0;top:18px;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:22px;font-weight:300}.faq-item[open] summary:after{content:'−'}.faq-item p{margin:0 0 22px;color:#50605c}
.table-scroll{overflow-x:auto;-webkit-overflow-scrolling:touch}.timeline{margin:40px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.timeline-row{display:grid;grid-template-columns:120px 1fr;padding:18px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.timeline-row span{font-size:9px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.15em;color:#71807c}.timeline-row strong{font-family:var(--display);font-size:30px;font-weight:400}.compare-duo{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:24px;margin:40px 0}.compare-duo img{height:420px;object-fit:cover}.compare-duo h2{margin-top:24px!important}.gateway-row{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.65fr 1.35fr;gap:30px;padding:24px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.gateway-row h3{margin:0!important}.gateway-row p{margin:0}
.hero:after,.page-hero:after{content:'';position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:1;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(4,18,15,.1),rgba(4,18,15,.38))}.hero .wrap,.page-hero .wrap,.hero .credit,.page-hero .credit{position:relative;z-index:2}.park-card .photo{filter:saturate(.93) contrast(1.03)}.wide-img{background-position:center;background-size:cover}.article>p{max-width:780px}
@media(max-width:1180px){.lang-switch{width:100%;margin:8px 0 0;padding:10px 0 0;border-left:0;border-top:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.14)}}
@media(max-width:640px){.lang-switch{gap:2px}.lang-link{font-size:8px!important;padding:5px 4px!important}.faq-item summary{font-size:24px}.compare-duo{grid-template-columns:1fr}.compare-duo img{height:300px}.gateway-row{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:8px}.timeline-row{grid-template-columns:90px 1fr}.timeline-row strong{font-size:25px}}